In order to use the Dash Dyno you have to have some car specs..here are mine
frontal area 19.37 sqft
drag coefficient .34
tire height 23.6"
gear ratio 4.10:1
car weight 2550lbs (w driver and full tank)
23 April 2010
21 April 2010
I can see it now
Decided to mount my Dash Dyno rather than have the suction cup mount forever. The Dash Dyno has become a somewhat permanent fixture in the car while going through the tuning adventure as it has knock alarms and is able to display the OE wide-band O2 sensor among other things. It will likely be in the car through the summer until I am confident that I have a tune that won't destroy this new engine. My main concern and focus was that I wanted to be able to quickly remove the DD and cable to pop in another car if needed (2 phillips screws) and I wanted the DD pointed directly at me, as the alarm LEDs are recessed a bit and if not pointed at you they can be missed when flashing. Mission accomplished.
As I make metal products for a living I've decided to somewhat promote some of the low demand items I make on this blog as I come up w them. No heavy sell, just if you want one like mine it's available.
This mount is CNC cut from Aluminum and is texture coated with low sheen black. I think it blends reasonably well. It's held on w 3M VHB tape which sticks awesome and is actually rather easy to remove w the right technique (floss and a rubbing finger). If you'd like one of these mounts It's $19.50 shipped.
As I make metal products for a living I've decided to somewhat promote some of the low demand items I make on this blog as I come up w them. No heavy sell, just if you want one like mine it's available.
This mount is CNC cut from Aluminum and is texture coated with low sheen black. I think it blends reasonably well. It's held on w 3M VHB tape which sticks awesome and is actually rather easy to remove w the right technique (floss and a rubbing finger). If you'd like one of these mounts It's $19.50 shipped.
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| From MX5 general |
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| From MX5 general |
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| From MX5 general |
22 March 2010
More boost...
Time to add more boost to my built motor so here is what I know:
Stock pulley:
3.3" diameter
0.64" keyed shaft (not press fit)
0.4" offset
6 rib
nut torque spec: 45 ft-lbs
Magnuson part number: 58-90-06-033
Stock Cosworth belt:
Gates Micro V-AT K061040= 6rib 104"
The supercharger is rated at 16000 rpm so I cant exceed that.
I decided to go with the cheapest pulley I could find for testing purposes as I could not find any formula that would determine boost output. I went with the smallest readily available pulley which wouldn't overspin the blower. The charts to the side are from Magnusons web site for this blower.
I bought a 2.8" pulley from PulleyBoys.com Install wasn't too bad, there is only one bolt to remove (do this before you loosen belt tension or use an impact wrench)then i used a cheap pulley puller ($5) from AutoZone to pull the pulley off. They say that a puller is not needed but as it was my crappy puller barely was strong enough to get it off, so don't believe the hype. I put the new pulley on with some anti-sieze lube and torqued the nut.
The ne w smaller pulley required a new shorter belt so I got a Gates Micro V-AT 061031= 6rib 103.625"OD. This is for sure the shortest belt one could go with for this app as it was a tight install but that is what I was looking for.
so here is the pudding...14psi! at a little under 15k rpm at redline. NICE!
Stock pulley:
3.3" diameter
0.64" keyed shaft (not press fit)
0.4" offset
6 rib
nut torque spec: 45 ft-lbs
Magnuson part number: 58-90-06-033
Stock Cosworth belt:
Gates Micro V-AT K061040= 6rib 104"
The supercharger is rated at 16000 rpm so I cant exceed that.
I decided to go with the cheapest pulley I could find for testing purposes as I could not find any formula that would determine boost output. I went with the smallest readily available pulley which wouldn't overspin the blower. The charts to the side are from Magnusons web site for this blower.
I bought a 2.8" pulley from PulleyBoys.com Install wasn't too bad, there is only one bolt to remove (do this before you loosen belt tension or use an impact wrench)then i used a cheap pulley puller ($5) from AutoZone to pull the pulley off. They say that a puller is not needed but as it was my crappy puller barely was strong enough to get it off, so don't believe the hype. I put the new pulley on with some anti-sieze lube and torqued the nut.
The ne w smaller pulley required a new shorter belt so I got a Gates Micro V-AT 061031= 6rib 103.625"OD. This is for sure the shortest belt one could go with for this app as it was a tight install but that is what I was looking for.
so here is the pudding...14psi! at a little under 15k rpm at redline. NICE!
07 March 2010
idle time
So my car would not idle for the first 50 miles or so, upon startup it would but if you revved it it would simply die. That made for some tricky intersection work as I found I needed a 3rd foot to keep the car running.
Now with 200 or so miles on it is has really stabilized and seems fine. I'm hoping for another beautiful day tommorrow so I can put a hundred or so miles on the car. I want to have at least 500 miles on it before Pat at Sniper/Delta gets his hands on it next Monday the 15th.
Now with 200 or so miles on it is has really stabilized and seems fine. I'm hoping for another beautiful day tommorrow so I can put a hundred or so miles on the car. I want to have at least 500 miles on it before Pat at Sniper/Delta gets his hands on it next Monday the 15th.
04 March 2010
Engine Break-in
Cosworth tips for break in:
Adam,
Here are some general break in guidelines.
Let us know how it turns out.
Before Starting
During the break-in process, we recommend using a high quality API SJ or newer mineral 20W-50 engine
oil. We also recommend using a genuine Mazda oil filter. Do NOT use a synthetic or synthetic blend
during the break-in process. We also strongly recommend priming the engine’s oil system before starting.
To do this, make sure there is no fuel or spark by disconnecting either the ECU or by removing the
appropriate fuses. Then crank the engine for 30 seconds or until there is oil pressure registering on an oil
pressure gauge.
Engine Break-in
Upon initial start-up hold the engine at 2000rpm for 10-15 minutes for proper camshaft break-in. If the
engine will be broken in by driving the car, then drive the vehicle at various loads, speeds, and throttle
positions while keeping engine speeds below 4000 rpm for approximately 1000 miles or 1660 kilometers.
The longer the engine is broken in, the better your results will be.
The engine should be calibrated to achieve an air fuel ratio rich enough for
the type of fuel you are using. Consult with a professional tuner if you are unsure of what air fuel ratio
you should be running.
Adam,
Here are some general break in guidelines.
Let us know how it turns out.
Before Starting
During the break-in process, we recommend using a high quality API SJ or newer mineral 20W-50 engine
oil. We also recommend using a genuine Mazda oil filter. Do NOT use a synthetic or synthetic blend
during the break-in process. We also strongly recommend priming the engine’s oil system before starting.
To do this, make sure there is no fuel or spark by disconnecting either the ECU or by removing the
appropriate fuses. Then crank the engine for 30 seconds or until there is oil pressure registering on an oil
pressure gauge.
Engine Break-in
Upon initial start-up hold the engine at 2000rpm for 10-15 minutes for proper camshaft break-in. If the
engine will be broken in by driving the car, then drive the vehicle at various loads, speeds, and throttle
positions while keeping engine speeds below 4000 rpm for approximately 1000 miles or 1660 kilometers.
The longer the engine is broken in, the better your results will be.
The engine should be calibrated to achieve an air fuel ratio rich enough for
the type of fuel you are using. Consult with a professional tuner if you are unsure of what air fuel ratio
you should be running.
03 March 2010
More fried brakes anyone?
Putting my car together, going through everything and found some more toasted brakes from the last track outting...I think I am done with these Maruha pads now.
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| From blown engine |
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| From blown engine |
Header install tip
If you have changed the headers on an NC or are planning on doing so here is a little tip that will save you 30mins and a pocketful of change from going in the cuss can.
The heat shield on the NC MX-5 is a real pain to remove and install. there are fastening points, one nut on the firewall (easy) and 2 bolts running longitudinally on the car. Them middle bolt isn't so bad, but the front one is a bastard as it is right above the alternator.
Here is my tip, slot the bolts with a Dremel or similar and just unscrew them from the top. Once you have the shield out, notch the mounting holes so that you can partially install the bolts then slide the shield in or out without having to remove the bolts totally in the future. Once the shield is in place just screw the bolts tight from the top, then snug them from the underside.
The heat shield on the NC MX-5 is a real pain to remove and install. there are fastening points, one nut on the firewall (easy) and 2 bolts running longitudinally on the car. Them middle bolt isn't so bad, but the front one is a bastard as it is right above the alternator.
Here is my tip, slot the bolts with a Dremel or similar and just unscrew them from the top. Once you have the shield out, notch the mounting holes so that you can partially install the bolts then slide the shield in or out without having to remove the bolts totally in the future. Once the shield is in place just screw the bolts tight from the top, then snug them from the underside.
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| From blown engine |
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| From blown engine |
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| From blown engine |
27 February 2010
It's alive!
I got the car up and running last night! It started really easily and I had no leaks, first time go!
Idle is a bit lumpy and lower in tone, presumeable from the lower compression ratio and Cosworth cams.
couple things left on the agenda:
-hook up the H2O/Meth injection.
-run a catch can for the crankcase vent, Cosworth says it can mess w the intercooler if it vents into the intake as the factory had it.
heading to Florida mid-March to get the car tuned by Delta.
Idle is a bit lumpy and lower in tone, presumeable from the lower compression ratio and Cosworth cams.
couple things left on the agenda:
-hook up the H2O/Meth injection.
-run a catch can for the crankcase vent, Cosworth says it can mess w the intercooler if it vents into the intake as the factory had it.
heading to Florida mid-March to get the car tuned by Delta.
25 February 2010
a source for NC trim fasteners at a fair price!
http://www.pointe-products.com/itemclass/Mazda-Clips-Fasteners
check it out.
check it out.
23 February 2010
22 February 2010
18 February 2010
Putting the engine back together I realized that I had to order some new gaskets (intake, exhaust, water pump) so I ordered them from mazdamotorsports development. Gosh I really like those guys. Super easy to talk to, they know cars and parts, they don't talk to you like you're an A-hole like the parts counter guys, AND you save money! What more can you ask for. I also had to order some front brake pads as I fried them at my last outing. The savings was huge. really cool.
01 February 2010
The day has come
From correspondence with Cosworth last week:
In regards to your specific question about what modifications were done to the engine;
Good used engine block
Forged crank as supplied by you
Cosworth forged rods
Cosworth forged low comp piston
Cosworth rod bearings
New rear seal
balanced
Cosworth MX1 cams
Cosworth updated valve springs
Fresh valve job
New Mazda head gasket
Professional assembly
Your engine is done and will ship within the next two days with your used parts except for the engine block.
Yeah, it's gonna be bad!
In regards to your specific question about what modifications were done to the engine;
Good used engine block
Forged crank as supplied by you
Cosworth forged rods
Cosworth forged low comp piston
Cosworth rod bearings
New rear seal
balanced
Cosworth MX1 cams
Cosworth updated valve springs
Fresh valve job
New Mazda head gasket
Professional assembly
Your engine is done and will ship within the next two days with your used parts except for the engine block.
Yeah, it's gonna be bad!
06 January 2010
The pistons have arrived!
I got an email from Cosworth today letting me know that the new lower compression ratio pistons are available. They also said that they will be assembling my motor and should have it done before mid-month. Nice!
here are the pics that they sent me of the new pistons, Almost too pretty to have splashing around in oil.
here are the pics that they sent me of the new pistons, Almost too pretty to have splashing around in oil.
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| From The Blue Meany |
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| From The Blue Meany |
17 December 2009
Mad Max!
As the Blue Meany looks right now...If only I had an engine I might be able to strike fear in the hearts of the general public rather than having them say "oh look at that cute convvertible" ...grrrrrr
27 October 2009
21 October 2009
Cosworth Update
Just got a mailing from Cosworth today. I am eager to get my engine back, hopefully wtih some Cosworth magic applied.
I am still very confident that this product is a good one, I question the engine quality though.
02 October 2009
edit: Born on date
a correction is needed. I just took a look at a buddy's more recent NC engine and found that the year is the first digit in the born on date. This makes alot more sense. Outrage averted.
03 August 2009
What the @#$?
Look what I found when I pulled the engine of my 2006 car. A born on date of 2002!!!
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| From blown engine |
engine on vacation
I'm sending off the heart of the BlueMeany to get a spa treatment at Cosworth.
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| From blown engine |
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| From blown engine |
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